Qalqilya, then Back to Ramallah

Leaving Jayyous before 7 this morning, when Sherif and his wife left for the gate through the Separation Fence to get to their olive trees, we took a service taxi to Qalqilya, a city of some 40,000 Palestinians completely surrounded by the Separation Wall. Qalqilya too was much in the news a few years ago, until international pressure pushed the Israeli authorities to open a second exit from the city.

During my visit to Israel and Palestine four years ago I was on the Israeli side of Qalqilya’s enclosure,. I took photos of the wall from across the highway, Qaliqilya’s houses clearly showing in the sun. Knowing the crowded city was completely encircled, with entry and exit strictly limited in time and availability, made it look like a prison. This morning, inside, the city seemed more ordinary, perhaps because Palestinian entry has eased some.

Downtown Qalqilya   
But the Separation Wall looms large,  

Qalqilya Separation Wall

Qalqilya Separation Wall

the checkpoints as dehumanizing as always.
 

Qalqilya Checkpoint
Qalqilya Checkpoint

The view across the highway at Israel, where I stood four years ago, seemed distant.

 

Israel from Qalqilya

Israel from Qalqilya

 

The drive back to Ramallah in the service taxi was nicely uneventful, which is to say this time we sailed past checkpoints and red-roofed Jewish settlements without delays.

The view of Al Manarah Square from Stars and Bucks, where I combined email with coffee, brought the weekend adventure to an end.

 

Ramallah's Al Manarah Square

For some, life remains almost manageable.

 

Climbing the Al Manarah Lion

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